A Tree Planting Guide

· 3 min read
A Tree Planting Guide

When planting trees, one thing you need to take into consideration before choosing a location may be the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you could be tempted by all the different species that are offered, take the time to choose carefully, especially if you have the average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.

It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting a mature tree is difficult and will be costly if done professionally. This could justify the trouble, however, in case a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. What you are paying or may be the time it takes a smaller tree to mature.

The best time to transplant a tree is in the early spring or late fall.  https://canvas.instructure.com/eportfolios/2466585/Home/ree_Pruning__Some_Essentials  can plant trees completely leaf with the aid of wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss until the roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in early spring.

When planting a tree over 6 feet high, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.

Because the root system needs fertile soil when it is planted, special steps should be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. Underneath should be split up with a pitchfork and thoroughly blended with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.

Manure can be used sparingly and should only be spread on the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the better for your tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it however, not under the roots. In the event that you hit a layer of creating debris or clay, which is not at all uncommon near a residence, you need to remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or better still, garden humus.

If you are planting a bare root seedling, you should protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it might be kept before planting provided that it is dormant.

This implies laying it on its side at an angle to the bottom and covering the roots with good soil. When you are ready to take it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and also from any air pockets which may exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil in the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the position in which it is to grow and fill in the soil around it.


Work the soil around the roots utilizing a stick or shovel handle, and be sure you can find no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at round the same depth as its former location. Once the hole is two-thirds, of the way full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Complete the rest of the soil without tramping it down, so the water will drain towards the trunk.

A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one which has been dug with a solid ball of soil in which it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected.  Great site  is held set up by way of a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly less than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.

If the bottom is dry, fill the hole with water and let it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the very top once you put the tree in place, and roll it back a few inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.

Following the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the first year, the more cultivation round the tree the better, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep the moisture in the bottom.